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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.